Is there still a lack of representation in male grooming for Black men?

“Diversity of choice. Black men have been historically overlooked and grossly underserved by the male grooming sector.”

Any Black person can relate to the infamous line, “let me touch your hair?”. Far too many Black men and women have been asked this question, myself included. A chilling lyric that has shaped grooming standards for Black people, understanding how to navigate cultural traditions and fitting into a Western society.

An emotional attachment can be challenged between our image and respective physics. As a fashion journalist with more access to garments and haircare than most, it’s still an eye-opener to the slow progressive change in beauty standards for Black people in the Western world. In its glorious various textures and styles, Afro hair has been perceived as unattractive and deemed unprofessional in the workplace. Those beauty standards are at odds with how we direct the narrative.

Is the British hair industry still ignoring Afro-hair? As a sister of a young Black man, I understand the prejudice faced daily towards the colour of his skin by peers and teachers at his school. Another witness to children being excluded or suspended from school for wearing their natural hairstyles. As adults, we experience a similar response within workplaces to have our hair “neat” enough. Sometimes we must explain that our hair routine or different textured hair cannot be styled the same way as Caucasian hair.

BLK Brit spoke to Lina, co-founder of men’s Afro hair care brand, Aaron Wallace, and copywriter Rhys Waul about his hair journey.

Image Via Black Wall St Media: Co-founders of Aaron Wallace - Lina Gadi (right) and Aaron Wallace (left)

Lina, co-founder of Aaron Wallace

At the start of the brand's journey, how did you find a gap in the market for your products?

“Firstly, it was mostly instinctive, as Black consumers we knew that we were often overlooked when it came to our specific personal care needs. This was even more so when it came to Black men and their grooming needs. Additionally, Aaron's experience as a barber with his shop meant he was directly exposed to the lack of available products in the market to help Black men and men of colour take better care of their hair, their beards and their skin. Having said that, instinct is not enough to demonstrate a gap big enough for it to be an exciting business proposition, this is where thorough market research comes into play.”

Where did the journey begin for Aaron Wallace?

“Our journey started in a South London barber shop back in 2016. After identifying the size of the gap in the market, we spent the next 3 years trying and testing different ingredients and formulations to find the best combination that would help our customers see positive improvements. We ran focus groups and went into barbershops to speak with other barbers and get their feedback on our formulas. Then in October 2019 we officially launched to the wider market.”

Jamaican Black Castor Oil has many benefits for afro hair, is there another ingredient you swear by for hair growth?

“Black Seed Oil is the ingredient you want to see in your products. Almost mythical, it is commonly referred to as Nigella Sativa, and known as ‘The cure for everything except death’ due to its amazing health benefits. Black Seed Oil has been used for thousands of years for healing and medicinal purposes, having been mentioned by Greek philosophers and ancient texts alike. It was even discovered in King Tut’s tomb. Over 630 peer-reviewed studies have found it to contain over 100 elements of proteins, alkaloids and saponins. When it comes to afro hair care, Black Seed is highly emollient, meaning it effectively penetrates the follicles and cuticles of your hair and beard to achieve maximum hydration. Extensive studies have also shown it to have restorative properties that feed and nourish the scalp. With its antioxidant, antibacterial and antifungal properties, it’s also highly effective in reducing flaking and combating the environmental causes of early hair loss. It is therefore no wonder that we chose it as one of our key ingredients.”

Aaron Wallace has been featured in GQ, Forbes, and Essence magazine. Some of the most celebrated publications in the world. What has this done for the brand and the response you receive from consumers?

“The press we have received to date has been incredible and shows the growing wider interest in this market segment. For us at Aaron Wallace, it has had a tremendous effect. Not only has it helped raise our brand awareness on a broader scale, but it also very quickly helped to establish our brand’s credibility very early on, which in turn attracted big retailers like ASOS, who were the first and eventually the likes of Superdrug and Sainsbury’s.”

In an article with Spell magazine, Aaron Wallace speaks about his journey as a barber, how has this helped you both grow the brand?

“Our brand was born in the barbershop so it's a huge part of our identity and DNA. Barbershops are often the cornerstone of the Black community and a place where people meet, share ideas, and discuss current affairs and issues affecting both our personal lives and the community at large. Barbers are therefore trusted individuals, and we take that trust very seriously. Using Aaron’s expert knowledge, we have created a range of products that are of the highest quality but most importantly work. That’s how his journey as a barber has helped grow the brand, it brought with it a wealth of knowledge, expertise and for our customers, trust.”

What has been your experience as a Black woman and as a co-founder, and Director in the hair sector?  

“It’s been an awesome journey and if I could go back I would do it all over again. As a Black woman, there have been some unique biases and hurdles that I have had to overcome but I have been fortunate enough to have joined and been welcomed into valuable networks and communities that have helped me navigate those challenges. If there is one thing, I always say to anyone looking to start a business, but especially to Black founders, is to make sure you invest time in growing and nurturing your network. Attend relevant events, engage in meaningful conversations online both online and offline, and never stop learning.”

What has been lacking in the hair industry for Black men?

“Diversity of choice. Black men have been historically overlooked and grossly underserved by the male grooming sector, which means often they have had to resort to either using products made for women or picking up the one product that is available on the shelf. We are determined to change that. Black men should be able to choose products based on their preferences as much as we women get to and as much as their white counterparts get to. Next to this, there has also been a lack of education on what Black men need to do to make sure their hair, beard and skin remain healthy, but I am seeing more and more men taking time out.”

Image: Rhys Waul via Instagram

Rhys Waul, copywriter

What were your hairstyle choices throughout your childhood, and pre-adolescence?

“I say from the years just before secondary school to my teenage years I had gel twists which went into single plaits. Then I had a cornrow at the top of my head and then into single plaits, later in my early twenties, I decided to cut it all off.” 

How did your hair journey shape your confidence?

“Hair didn’t define [me] when I was growing up. Whether I had short hair or plaits on the top with the sides shaved down, it never really shaped my hair journey. I don’t think it shaped my confidence because I always had it, I didn’t find confidence in my hair, growing up in the 90s there were multiple styles that you experimented with. You had hair on the top with the sides shaved down, high tops, whatever hairstyles that was fashionable then. The transition from the late 90s to the early 2000s, I always had hair on my head - it was never a key point where my confidence came from. I think that my dad gave myself and my brother's confidence to be comfortable in our skin. So, by the time I turned 20 years old I chose to cut my hair off, I outgrew my long hair. My hair defines who I am, it doesn’t build my confidence.”

Other than your career in copywriting, you’re also a sportsman. Can you take me through the challenges and how you maintain your hair whilst training?

“No matter what my hair was always in braids or single plaits, I don’t think I’ve ever played football with my hair out. My brother can do it, I don’t understand how, it’s too much maintenance - extra mud and sweat, it’s jarring. But now there’s a practicality of people wearing do-rags whereas at that time especially in the early 2000s people weren’t doing it. So for me, it wasn't easy to manage and more frustrating after sitting down for hours getting my hair done.”

Do you have any early memories of visiting the barbershop?

“As a kid, no. I remember my mum cutting my hair, she used to always trim my hair and then I went to the barbers every so often. But I can’t remember the pinnacle moments. Once I was older enough, I went with my dad a few times.”

Where do you buy your hair products and which ones do you go to?

”I usually buy my hair products from hair shops, there’s one close to my house and kind of adapted to what best matches my hair. I used Pataze then went to Dax, the red one and the black one. Currently use Black Castor Oil on my hair.”

Have you ever received a form of discrimination towards your hair?

“I have probably. In secondary school not so much but when I was in college and began applying for jobs I would be in situations where people would see a straight-faced kid trying to look for work with my hair. “Probably not sure about him” but it was more cussing than discriminative in my face in any capacity.”

What do you pride yourself in being a British black man?

“Mannerisms, behaviour and aesthetics.”